Press "Fugas" Magazine 2010 (PT)
Quinta do Pôpa – Vinhas Velhas – 2007
Luís Pato and the meat without bone
Manuel Carvalho
The appearance of new brands in the market has not been news in a long time. But it’s not every year that new estates located on the margins of the Douro River, in emblematic locations like the line of the EN 222 between Régua and Pinhão, have the opportunity to show themselves. To be thorough, that which Quinta do Pôpa has been for the last two years was once Quinta do Vidiedo although the current boundaries contemplate other plots that were purchased from local producers. If the name change is significant, what deserves appreciation are the efforts of a Duriense farmer known as Zeca do Pôpa that during years constructed an enterprise that posthumously received his nickname as homage.
The first wines from Quinta do Pôpa appeared on the market very recently and those who know its location, or better its terroir, would only believe that they could be bad if there had been negligence and incompetence. In the estate, old vineyards planted on 50-year-old terraces combine with modern plantations of the most attractive grape varieties of the region. Its display is magnificent. Its equipment is modern. In addition, as important as the factors granted by nature, the oenologist supervisor is Luís Pato from Bairrada.
Luís Pato has been saying for a long time that Douro “is meat without bone” and in our particular case, the “stew” that he made with ingredients from Quinta do Pôpa is juicy and delicious. Irreverent and inventive as he is, he couldn’t satisfy himself taking care of the oenology at the estate and it is due to this attitude that he ventured in the making of the Trepa, a mixture of red Duriense Roriz with berries from the Pan vine. He then made a point of treating the wines of his new adventure with the principles that he has defended for a long time. The elegance, the liveliness of the tannins and the pondered resource to wood are attributes that are a part of his brand image.
Of the 2007 harvest we tasted two Quinta do Pôpa red wines that deserve attention. They do not yet reach the upper limits of their Duriense counterparts of the year, but for a new brand we can say that much was achieved in such a short time. The Touriga Nacional that costs around 15 Euros, the floral dimension of the caste/grape variety, its subtlety and its aromatic density are impressive. Quinta do Pôpa Vinhas Velhas that matured during four months in new half barrels, and gave origin to 3333 bottles, pursues the physiognomy of its varietal brother, conserving its elegance, delicacy and profundity but is sustained on a much more complex and solid structure that approaches the classics.
With black fruit aromas, some mentholated and with notes that suggest the fragrances of Duriense wild bushes, this is a wine that provokes an explosion of sensations in the mouth. Well balanced, sophisticated and opulent, with an enormous and already advanced reinforcement of tannins, it’s a Duriense to be accounted for. It drinks well now but it will be much more impressive after spending a good couple of years in the bottle. Here the signature of Luís Pato is also a synonym of guarantee.
QUINTA DO PÔPA – VINHAS VELHAS 2007
Castes/Grape variety: over 60 year old vineyards with the predominance of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca and Tinta Barroca
Alcohol percentage: 14,5%
Region: Douro
Price: 25€
Tasting grade: 8,5 / 9
Quality / Price relation: 8
Scale from 1 to 2 (bad) and 9 to 10 (excellent)
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